Buzz
April 1998

1998 BUZZ RESTAURANT AWARDS

Best New French
Colonial Outpost

By Michelle Huneven and
Laurie Burrows Grad

The stiletto heels of the ladies-who-lunch tap-tap-tap across the koi pond bridge at CRUSTACEAN, the latest in a growing number of opulent Euro-Asian eateries (ObaChine is but a potsticker toss away) that have popped up in the last couple of years. The interior is extravagant--waterfalls, gold-capped columns, ceiling fans, bamboo, and, of course, the bridge--and the pricey menu holds up its side too. Stick with the lighter fare, such as the Vietnamese salad with chicken or prawns or the cactus salad of sea bass in Dijon mustard and balsamic vinaigrette.